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A guide on how to choose and buy the healthiest chickens

If you have been looking to start a little flock in your backyard or expand your current one, you might wonder what the best way forward is and what to look out for when buying chicks or chickens.

First of all, yeah, I am very excited for you. Chickens are the best, and you won't regret it!

Secondly, it really does not have to be overwhelming and complicated. Your chicken buying process will be fun when you know what you want and what to look out for.

Here are my top 12 tips for ordering and buying chickens, along with other helpful blogs when raising chickens.

12 Tips for buying chickens

1. When to buy new chickens

The most popular time to buy baby chicks is from spring to early summer (March - June). There are two reasons for this - First, your hens will start laying eggs from 6 months (sometimes earlier), so you'll get eggs before the year is finished! And secondly, it'll be warm enough when you move them outside at 4-5 weeks of age

You can order chicks and hens any time of the year (there is no set rule), but there is a higher chance they will get too cold in transit in winter, and they may struggle more to adjust during the colder months.

2. Familiarise yourself with some of the standard terms used: 

Chick: A young chicken under six weeks old is called a chick.

Pullet: A young female chicken  under a year old is called a "pullet."

Cockerel: A young male chicken under a year old.

Hen: A mature female chicken that lays eggs.  

Rooster: An adult male chicken. Roosters are larger, stouter, and more aggressive than hens.

Bantam: A chicken between one-third and one-half the size of a standard chicken is called a bantam. If you want a chicken that is much easier to handle or if you are trying to keep chickens in a small space, this is the chicken for you.

Standard: A standard chicken is larger than a bantam and typically weighs between 4 and 8 pounds.

Cull: A chicken no longer considered suitable for breeding or showing due to poor health, low egg production, or other reasons.

Straight Run: A group of chicks that have not been sexed, which means you don't know if they are male or female.

Sexed: A group of chicks that have been sorted by sex.

3. Consider the breed(s) you want

Different breeds have different characteristics and may be better suited for certain climates, purposes, or preferences. Research the breeds out there and choose one that suits your needs.

These are some of the most common breeds: Buff Orpingtons, Barred (Plymouth) rocks, Brahmas, Rhode Islands Reds, and Silkies.

READ MORE: How to choose the best backyard chicken breeds that are perfect for your family

OUR CUTE SILKIE

4. Determine how many chickens you would like to keep

Chickens are extremely flock-oriented, so I recommend starting with at least three chickens. However, I am sure you'll soon want more once you get them! With three to six chickens, you will have a steady supply of eggs since an adult hen lays, on average, about two eggs every three days.

Think about your available space and resources required to keep them - 2-3 square feet per chicken inside a coop is the minimum suggestion. They also need a safe outside run/pen as chickens often like to sleep outside, and this way, they will still be protected against predators.

READ MORE: Caring for chickens 101


5. Do you want a rooster?

You'll need a rooster if you want to breed your chickens, as females will only lay fertilized eggs once they have mated. Don't worry, hens will still lay eggs you can eat even if there is no rooster around!

The general rule of thumb is 8 - 10 hens per rooster, so everyone is happy. The absolute minimum is 4 - 5 hens per rooster.

Roosters are great for defending the flock from predators, so if you cannot be with your hens 24/7, having a rooster or two is a good idea. They will sound an alarm, and the hens will run for cover. However, roosters can wake you up really in the morning and also be aggressive toward humans.

As with all things in life, there are pros and cons to keeping them.

READ MORE: All about roosters!

6. Consider what age chickens you want

Decide if you want to buy chicks or adult birds.

Chicks are cheaper but require more care and attention and will only lay eggs in about six months. Adult birds may be more expensive, but they are generally easier to care for, and you will have eggs immediately.

You could also buy eggs and hatch your own. This is a very fun and rewarding process as your chicks will grow up with you and have a head start when it comes to taming them. However, for a beginner, hatching eggs (fertilized eggs that need to be incubated) may be too daunting at first.

READ MORE: Baby Chicks 101

READ MORE: How to care for baby chickens: A human v.s hen mama comparison

7. Check for any local regulations

Check your local laws to ensure that keeping chickens is allowed in your area. Some cities may have specific rules or permits needed. Are you restricted to how many you are allowed? I.e., some places are limited to six with no roosters.

8. Find a reputable seller

Buy from a reputable seller, such as a hatchery, breeder, farm supply store, or a grower farmer. Avoid buying from backyard breeders or sellers with a questionable reputation or poor conditions.

Ask the following questions: Are they polite and helpful? Do they allow you to inspect the chickens of your choice? Are you allowed to see the conditions the birds are kept and raised in?

Get referrals from people you know who have bought at breeders and are happy. Be wary of auctions as sometimes this is where sub-standard or unhealthy birds get sold. Do your research beforehand and ensure you buy the sex you want, or you may end up with way too many roosters!


9. Buy in person whenever possible

I know this is not always possible, but if you can, buy chicks or chickens in person after seeing them first. Or at least for the very first time. While some businesses offer delivery services, most trustworthy breeders have a collection-only policy, and for a good reason.

By making your purchase in person, you will be able to inspect the birds' health and living conditions and return any that are obviously sick or otherwise not what was promised. There are always more chickens somewhere else, so leave if you are unsure.

10. Inspect the chickens' health

Look for alert and scratching chickens with bright eyes. They should also have smooth legs, healthy feathers, and a firm body which is a sign of healthy muscle and overall health. Check for hidden skin conditions or lice by gently parting the feathers.

The comb, located on top of the hen's head, should be red, plump, and glossy. If it's plump but pale, she's probably healthy but off-lay. When it starts to dry out, fade, or flake off, it's a sign that the chicken may be unwell. They should also have a clean bottom and vent.

Avoid birds that appear sick, stand hunched, and are uninterested in their surroundings. Though occasionally, cold or wet weather will cause this.

11. Plan for transportation home

Plan how you will transport the chickens home. Being transported in a box or cage can be very stressful for chickens. Drive carefully and ensure they have enough space to move around and are protected from the elements.

If you order chicks, they will arrive by mail. Yes! The post office mail. They are shipped in a tiny little box the day after they are born. Be warned, I have heard many times that not all the chickens survive being shipped. So consider this if opening the box around children, etc.


12. Prepare for their arrival

Prepare a suitable environment for the chickens to live in, including a coop, nesting boxes, and roosts. Ensure the environment is safe, secure, and free from predators and rodents. They should also have access to fresh water and the correct food ratio for their age.

If you are buying chicks, have a brooder and the starter feed ready. When the little babies arrive, they will be VERY thirsty. You must immediately take each one of them and dip their beaks into the water bowl so they will drink water.

When introducing new chicks (at the right age) to your existing flock, place them in a separate coop and run ( usually a much smaller one) close to your existing flock, but not where they're actually roaming around together. By putting them near each other, they can acclimate to their new surroundings and "know" other chickens are around.

When adding grown hens to your flock, first quarantine your new flock in a separate coop AWAY from your existing flock to ensure there are no diseases or issues with them before integrating the groups.

Once two weeks have passed, you can move them near your flock so they can see each other. Wait about 2 weeks again before putting them all together. This means about a month-long process when introducing older hens to an established flock. It’s a hassle but worth ensuring there are no diseases or issues.

READ MORE: How to integrate new chickens with your existing flock

These tips will help you to start your best, healthiest flock! Remember to trust your gut when buying chickens, if it feels right, go for it! If something puts you off, wait a bit or move on to the next supplier.

When you do research, know what you want, and plan before you order chickens, you set yourself up for a very enjoyable and fulfilling chicken caring journey!

Love, Annette xx


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